From today's Bangkok Post. Pete
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Spared for now
Ban Krut's natural beauty and its uninterrupted coastline are a rarity these days; enjoy while they last
THANIN WEERADET
Ban Krut, the last virgin beach strip in Prachuab Khiri Khan, it seems has been spared a life line after the government shelved its controversial plan to build a coal-fired power plant there.
For the time being, Ban Krut's sandy beaches still stretch as far as you can see. There are no high-rises to obstruct view except the lanky stems of coconut trees rising to meet the skyline - which is how Thailand's other beaches used to be until they were undone by change spawned by tourist dollars and began growing in all manners and directions to become the mess they are today. A case in point is Ko Chang off the Trat mainland.
But change is inevitable and Ban Krut is not immune to it, but so far it has managed to avoid the fate that befell on other more famous beaches by choosing to move at a controlled pace, a fact helped by its distance from Bangkok since unlike its neighbour Hua Hin, it doesn't make for a convenient weekend retreat for city dwellers.
Ban Krut is almost 400 kilometres south of Bangkok and to go there on vacation one needs to spare at least three days. With rising fuel prices driving there isn't an attractive option, therefore its mayor Jirawat Jaeosakul has joined the State Railway of Thailand in offering a two-day package from Bangkok and Hua Hin available on the first Saturday of every month.
A specially-designated train takes visitors to admire nature and the unspoilt beaches of this coastal town that is still devoid of luxurious accommodation.
The package includes one-night accommodation, meals and sightseeing tours to Singkhorn Checkpoint on the Burmese border and Wa Ko Science Museum.
On a recent trip I got up early to catch the sun rising over the horizon. The cool, morning breeze was refreshing and it seemed to caress the waves lapping the crescent-shaped coastline dotted with coconut trees that stretched for miles.
Keeping me company was Sitthichart Khumwong, president of Bang Saphan Tourist Business Club, who then ushered me to a fishing village next to Thong Lang Beach. It had a long pier that extended well into the sea. Apart from the odd truck parked to collect fish caught the previous night and deliver it to the market, there wasn't much activity.
We visited a temple not far from the beach that was a picture of calm and serenity. Beyond it was a construction site packed with cranes, heavy-duty equipment and workers, the site of a steel plant that had received concession from the government.
We next headed to the village of Ao Yang. On the way Sitthichart pointed to a lush forest tract and said, "That's yang na (dipterocarp trees)." In the old days villagers extracted resin by drilling the stem and scorching it until the sap started dripping. Today the practice is banned but scars from those days can still be seen. The tract is now called Klang Ao Forest Park.
Nine kilometres from Ban Krut market off Phet Kasem Highway lies Klong Loy whose residents cultivate rubber and fruit trees. The road becomes narrow as it snakes uphill to fruit orchards.
"Durian grown from here is among the best in Thailand," Sitthichart vouched and former headman Adul Nak-udom nodded in agreement when we stopped at Khlong Loy.
This year his village could be exporting 60,000 tonnes of durian to China and Japan. Very little of the produce is left for domestic consumption. "Forget about finding Khlong Loy durian in Bangkok," Adul said teasingly.
At another orchard by the roadside men and women were busy sorting out fruits and invited visitors to come and sample them - durian, mangosteen, longon.
"Have you ever tried durian jam?" asked a friendly owner of another orchard. "Here, try some durian chips."
We had arrived rather late for the fruit season, for which July is the best month when the space in front of his house is stacked with piles upon piles of durian.
He then proceeded to split open a durian to show why it's one of the best in Thailand. The crust was thin, the pulp soft and yellow, and the seeds flat and small.
The last stop was Ban Ron Thong, where villagers produce gold by panning ores containing the precious metal.
For the record, Bang Saphan has been known to have produced gold in small quantities for over a century. At the site where residents first hit gold, there is even a sign proclaiming that the gold found there was the best in the world. But that was long ago.
Farmer Buakhao Mingmuang first stumbled upon tiny bits of gold after he dug a pond in his backyard about a decade ago. Back then he was not convinced that there was a fortune to made until he ran into heavy debt four years ago after a spate of losses on the farm.
He recovered shortly afterwards, only to lapse back into debt again. This time, he says, there was no way out.
"I decided to push my luck and resumed digging in my backyard. People were laughing saying I was crazy," he recalled.
He hit gold, not big time but just enough to pay off his debt and make a profit good enough to sustain him and his family. He now makes 20,000 baht a week panning gold in his own backyard.
"I believe there is something big deeper underground," he said. His backyard is already a mess. There is a 10-metre deep pond virtually kissing the walls of his house.
And are his neighbours excited?
"Yes, but they are not bold enough to take my lead and dig up the land they are sitting on," he said.
I left Ban Ron Thong at dusk, enlightened. What if Bang Saphan was sitting on a pot of gold, I just couldn't help wondering.
MORE INFO
Ban Krut Beach is 25 kilometres south of Bang Saphan District, Prachuap Khiri Khan. It is 398 kilometres from Bangkok. The beach is ideal for nature lovers looking for less commercial beach resorts.
- Bus: It takes six hours from Bangkok to Bang Saphan. Buses leave regularly from the Southern Bus Terminal.
- Rail: Three trains leave Hua Lamphong for Ban Krut at 7:45am, 12pm and 3pm, and one from Thon Buri station at 7:30am. It takes seven hours to get to Ban Krut by train.
The State Railway of Thailand is offering a two-day package which includes accommodation, meals and sightseeing on the first Saturday of every month. It is priced at 1,900 baht per person. Call 1690 for reservations.
There is no air service from Bangkok.
Prachuap Khiri Khan
You mentioned Koh Chang above. Never been so no idea how built up or busy it is but have visited Koh Kud just below Koh Chang. Beautiful and peaceful island that is still how Koh Chang possibly once was. Not a great deal to do but perfect for a week of lazing about in a hammock and a spot of Snorkelling. But for how long............
