The Royal Barge Procession – Dress Rehearsal - Photo Report

[Big Boy]

A huge shame, yes. Not least for the thousands of spectators lining the banks to watch this spectacle. However, the weather made it feel real. Watching the guys bailing out was actually something special. I've seen the barges on TV quite a few times in pristine condition going down the Chao Phraya, but this actually made it all feel very special, Maybe I wouldn't have felt the same if I was not in the sanctuary of my hotel veranda, but exposed on a riverbank somewhere.

[STEVE G]

^ I realise that there is some religious significance to holding the event at this time but the idea of putting in so much effort at the height of the rainy season seems flawed.
The report was entertaining anyway!

[Big Boy]

The report was entertaining anyway!

'Was?' It's still ongoing. 2 more installments to come yet.

[Big Boy]

I’ve been on the road for a long time today, and currently enjoying a bit of R&R prior to another busy day tomorrow. I’ve decided another late evening post is better.

Part 6 – The Procession is Abandoned. Getting the boats home

Eventually, the rains cleared, and there were barges scattered at various parts of the river.

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Were they all filling with rain water, and needed to bail out urgently? It wasn’t the well drilled procession I’d come to see after the storm, but all of the boats were there all the same. I didn’t really need to see the boats in procession – it was seeing the boats on the river that was key. Yes, I know I could see them really close up at the museum, but it just isn’t the same as seeing them in their finest glory.

Officers seemed to be back on board, and several crews rowed their boats around to get into position to pick up a tow rope and get towed back to base. Clearly a well practiced drill, but it gave me a chance to photograph the barges I hadn’t seen until this point.

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Sua Thayan Chon or Sua Khamron Sin. These boats date back to King Narai the Great (1656 to 1688). Note the cannons in the bow. Both boats were restored in 1991.

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Sua Thayan Chon or Sua Khamron Sin. These boats date back to King Narai the Great (1656 to 1688). Note the cannons in the bow. Both boats were restored in 1991.

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The upper barge is either Thong Khuran Fa or Thong Ba Bin. These barges were in the procession of King Narai the Great (reigned 1656 - 1688)

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Thong Khuran Fa or Thong Ba Bin. These barges were in the procession of King Narai the Great (reigned 1656 - 1688)

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For a boat anorak like me, this was a fantastic event. I hope they’ve all learnt by their mistakes (biggest mistake was holding such an event in October. Anybody who lives here, well knows that it rains hard in October, and even harder in Bangkok).

Day 2 – Evening

We’d seen a restaurant just up the road from the hotel, so thought we’d try it. Unfortunately, when we got there, the outside restaurant was still packed with rows of spectator seats. We had to eat inside in the air-conditioned bit, and we were both frozen – it was far too cold for comfort. We couldn’t see outside through the windows because there was condensation on the outside. Food was a bit salty, and beer very expensive again – 190฿ for a small bottle. Then back to the hotel to pack ready for the journey home tomorrow. The big question is how will the taxi get to us?

……………………… to be continued.

[Big Boy]

Part 7 - Day 3 – The Journey Home

Breakfast was again in the Ton Makok Restaurant. We were early today, and claimed the prime table with the full-length windows pulled fully open. It was as though we were on an open deck, enjoying the river flowing past – a perfect end to what had mostly been a perfect hotel.

Next, we had to run the gauntlet of whether or not our taxi would get to us – I definitely had my doubts. I certainly couldn’t have driven my truck to the hotel, and I’m still in awe of the day 1 taxi actually getting us there. Bliss Taxis always arrive 30 minutes early – the taxi was booked for 10, so I made sure we were waiting in reception from 9. If he got there, it would have to be a very quick turn-around as there was nowhere to wait.

9:45 came, and no taxi – I was getting worried.

9:50 somebody came out of the hotel office, explained our taxi had been in touch, and he couldn’t get to the hotel (I was not surprised). We were bundled into the complimentary tuk tuk and taken to a pre-arranged (with the hotel) meeting place.

The taxi departed, and we were on our way, but the satnav out of there took us through 15 minutes of the narrowest winding roads I’ve known. Were we really in olde Bangkok. It was very interesting, but I was glad I wasn’t driving. The road system was as if we’d gone back to the 1800s. We eventually got out of the maze, and the taxi driver checked the satnav and said we’d be home in another 2 hours and 30 minutes, which was correct to the minute. As you can imagine, roadworks was not an issue.

Conclusion

My wife’s knee operation was worth every Baht. Within a month she has gone from wheelchair bound to being able to walk the streets of Bangkok, walk on River Boats in (river) rough conditions, get on and off moving River Boats easier than I did – it was truly marvelous. Even her lungs did not really act up – just one short stop for breath after seeing me struggle to disembark at Icon Siam when Max Verstappen decided to ram the jetty backwards at full speed. I’m sure she thought I was a goner, so it was anxiety more than a lung problem. I would think other people on that boat had suffered neck trauma with the jerk their heads must have received when the boat reversed into the jetty. I could see the collision with the jetty coming, and braced myself.

I really hate Bangkok, but this was a side of Bangkok that I’ve never seen before. I really liked it, and wouldn’t mind a return visit one day. The narrow streets and market smells were lovely (I don’t do shopping).

The hotel was compact, but very friendly. A bit naughty trying to con me out of 2,000฿ (£46)/night for a ‘river view’ room, especially when all of their rooms are ‘river view’, and they operate a strange ‘Green Policy’ in respect of making up rooms. Outside of that, my selection of hotel was quite brilliant. Wherever we were, there were fantastic river views – just what the doctor ordered for this trip.

The actual procession was a complete washout, but it was very real – I thoroughly enjoyed it, and despite missing most of the procession through the rain, what I saw before and afterwards more than made up for the missed procession. I was totally made up as a boat anorak. I got the photos I desired.

The price of beer in the area was scary – 190฿ (£4.37) for a small bottle, compared to the 65฿ (£1.50) for a large bottle that you can pay in Hua Hin. I’m glad I don’t drink very much these days.

Bangkok River Boats was a new experience. I think with a bit of practice/experience I could enjoy them, despite the obvious dangers for a wrinkly getting on and off.

A very memorable trip.

I’ll be back in a few days with my Chanthaburi Trip Report, which is happening now, and where the latter parts of this report have been posted from.

The End

[huahinjim]

Thanks BB for the great trip report and photos.

[caller]

Yes, great report BB. I am in Bkk now and going to the area by your hotel on Saturday. There is a car park off the main road that runs parallel to the river and we will wander around thr market, top up on my meds at the pharmacies and will probably have a look at the hotel you stayed in. The alleys and back streets in the area from River City to Chinatown are also well worth exploring.

[Big Boy]

Yes, most definitely a different Bangkok to the one I've known previously.