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Excellent use of materials ............. I think the walls will hold them just make sure the floors are thick enough to stop anyone tunnelling out.... and if you have any 16mm rebar then it can be used for the windows
the walls should be 25 cm. 2 x 10 cm brick with a 5 cm vented cavity. 25 cm posts should have 6 x 16mm rebar.
anything less than that just isn't strong enough.
miked
If I am reading this right the groundbeam should be 155 cm clear of the ground level?
A groundbeam of say 40cm on a bungalow combined with whacking the normal "My house is higher than your house" 1m of landfill and the floor slab will put you around 3m above surrounding roads/land just to meet the bare minimum.Giving you enough height for a "Helter skelter" That is assuming your land is flat. I assume it applies to the whole property? If so and on a gradient you need to be even higher at certain points of the house. I recently had an architect and an engineer redesign the elevations in order to raise a design 20cm on a large property with several outbuildings. Original certified plans had an elevation to floor level of 80cm/70 cm. Total cost for redesign, recertification, materials and labour less than 30k so I do not really think developers are saving any money by entering into the world of "Dampness". As for rising damp? Never seen here beyond beach bungalow toilets. I have seen plenty of mould growing on walls, columns etc. Mainly due to lack of priming correctly before decorating. And damp/humidity of course. Clearly your experience and observations are different. Also every architect and engineer I know are ill informed and my eyesight is failing.
On the subject of damp proofing, I notice that if you look at those Thai construction drawings that Splitlid posted on the first page of this thread, on the right hand side there is a detail that has an arrow stating "water stop" in English pointing at a feature.
Is that damp proofing proofing some kind?
STEVE G wrote:On the subject of damp proofing, I notice that if you look at those Thai construction drawings that Splitlid posted on the first page of this thread, on the right hand side there is a detail that has an arrow stating "water stop" in English pointing at a feature.
Is that damp proofing proofing some kind?
thats a water stop for a swimming pool.
so miked have you now decided that you have no reasons to give for your calculations?
if so can we now carry on with the thread and talk about roof tiles?
or have you got anything else of value you would like to add ?
"All the otters don't understand me"
"We might make you bother"
I'm sure I asked about bricks and tiles, and now we have a 3 page "who knows the most about damp" thread
Thanks to those that have tried to help (and the moderator for bringing it back to topic), can the others please start their own threads if they want to compare sizes and bark at each other.
Last edited by OscarMike on Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Why do the walls need to be strong?
The ground beams I would think would need to be substantial to support a 60cm wall.
Maybe Miked plans are for a condominium. Speak nicely to the guy in the land office and he will give you good plan and direct you to his brothers cement / steel shop
25 + 25 + 5 + RENDER = 60+ I would advise using this otherwise the damp will be a problem
splitlid
your posts will not be strong enough.also if you want to avoid the house becoming a greenhouse you need 25 cm walls. 2 x 10 cm brick or block with a 5 cm vented cavity. posts should be 25 cm with 6 x 16mm re bar. anything less you are building sub standard.
your choice of block is quite frankly a joke and will turn the property into a greenhouse. i'm sure you don't understand what i'm talking about and have no idea how to build in a hot country.
better i don't talk about roof tiles. no doubt you will fit red concrete tiles with a non vented roof. (non vented roof.?? whats he talking about. what are roof vents.??)
miked
you pretty funny miked, thanks for the laugh.
still no reason given why my columns are not strongh enough, especially when you have no idea what loads are on them.
also where are you getting these 100mm bricks (or blocks now) from, i would love to see them.
you must have some photos to post of your construction and home.
come on put up or shut up please.
best you get on the net and start googling.
"All the otters don't understand me"
"We might make you bother"
poosmate
pay attention. the walls are 25cm not 60cm. 2 x 10 cm brick or block with a 5 cm vented cavity. the keyword is vented. it's 25 cm thick not for strength but as a heat barrier. the vented cavity will vent hot air into the roof area and exit the roof via roof vents. this will allow cooler air to enter the cavity between the bricks and so help to cool the house. don't tell me, you haven't got roof vents.
it will not work on slitlids property. the air will be trapped inside the blocks and act as a heater.
miked